KEY POINTS
- Muizz ud Dinn and Mathieu Maynadier pioneered a new 1,800-meter route named “Zindabad Route” on Spantik’s East Ridge
- The expedition overcame harsh weather and challenging terrain during a five-day ascent
- Muizz ud Dinn is on track to become Pakistan’s first UIAGM-certified mountain guide
- The new route adds to Spantik’s legacy and symbolizes a fresh era of growth, with plans to establish a guide and porter training school in Pakistan
ISLAMABAD: Pakistani mountaineer Muizz ud Dinn and French alpinist Mathieu Maynadier have opened a new route on the East Ridge of Spantik (7,027m), known as the Golden Peak of the Karakoram, from 2 to 7 June.
The ascent marks a significant milestone for Pakistan’s mountaineering, with the 1,800-metre line — named the “Zindabad Route” (Urdu for “long live”) — becoming the first of its kind on this side of the Karakoram peak.
This daring expedition, marked by perseverance amid harsh weather and challenging alpine terrain, etched an 1,800-meter line named “Zindabad” showcasing a complex mix of mixed climbing rated M5 A1 at an 80° incline.
It’s a route destined to become one of the summer’s most celebrated ascents on Pakistan’s towering giants.
For twenty days, the duo braved prolonged storms at Base Camp, patiently preparing and acclimatising through staged camps at 5,200m and 5,800m.
When the window finally opened, they launched into a gruelling five-day ascent through fresh snow and unstable slabs.
Though forced to turn back a mere 50 meters shy of the summit due to a dangerous wind slab, their true victory was in the route itself—a powerful testament to local alpinism and a beacon for Pakistan’s climbing future.
Their descent retraced the normal route, including a final bivouac at 5,800 meters after days of demanding climbing.
Beyond this ascent, the expedition signals the start of a greater vision: Muizz ud Dinn’s journey to become Pakistan’s first UIAGM-certified mountain guide, currently underway with training and exams in France.
This milestone is a vital step toward reclaiming Pakistan’s place on the global mountaineering stage, which has waned since 2001 due to closures and external dominance.
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The partnership between Maynadier, a seasoned French climber and long-time advocate for Pakistani mountaineering, and Muizz reflects a shared commitment to nurturing homegrown talent.
Their work aims to establish a professional guide and high-altitude porter school in Pakistan, fostering the next generation of mountaineers.
Spantik, already famed for its technical challenges—highlighted by the acclaimed 2000 alpine-style ascent of the “Golden Pillar” on its north face—now adds this historic route to its legacy.
