ISLAMABAD: British-Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja, who set the record for the fastest ascent of the world’s 14 highest mountains, has died along with nine other climbers after a powerful avalanche struck an international expedition on Pakistan’s Broad Peak, his expedition company said on Saturday.
Purja, 43, and the nine-member team had been missing since Thursday after the avalanche hit while they were ascending Broad Peak in the Karakoram mountain range in Gilgit-Baltistan.
“It is with profound sadness and immense heartbreak that we confirm that Nirmal Purja tragically lost his life following the avalanche on Broad Peak,” his expedition company, Elite Expeditions, said in a statement posted on social media.
The company said it had also received confirmation that the other members of the expedition had not survived, but did not immediately provide further details.
Following the devastating avalanche, Pakistan Army helicopters and ground search and rescue teams made every effort to locate the climbers, but without success.
International expedition
According to Gilgit-Baltistan authorities, the expedition comprised 10 climbers, including Purja, five other Nepalis, one Pakistani, one Omani, one American and one Chinese climber.
Authorities said the avalanche struck around midday on Thursday as the team was climbing at an altitude of about 6,600 metres during an attempt to summit the 8,047-metre Broad Peak.
The team last made contact on Thursday morning before reports emerged later that day that they had been caught in a powerful avalanche.
Search and rescue operation
The Gilgit-Baltistan government said on Friday night that the remains recovered so far and flown by helicopter to a hospital for formal identification included an American woman, an Omani woman and a Nepali man.
Police in Gilgit-Baltistan said rescue teams and high-altitude porters resumed search operations on Saturday after adverse weather had forced a temporary suspension a day earlier.
Broad Peak Search and Rescue Operation
The search and rescue operation on Broad Peak resumed this morning. High-altitude porters and rescue teams have restarted the operation to continue the search for the missing mountaineers.
(Spokesperson, Gilgit-Baltistan Police) pic.twitter.com/EqXOIqOPgN
— Gilgit-Baltistan Police (@police_gb) August 1, 2026
The Gilgit-Baltistan government said Pakistani military helicopters and rescue teams had been searching the area while personnel remained at the base camp overnight.
“The rescue operation is being conducted under extremely challenging terrain and high-altitude weather conditions by the Pakistani army in coordination with local high-altitude climbers and rescuers,” the Gilgit-Baltistan government said.
Pakistan Army search and rescue teams search for climbers
Pakistan Army helicopters and ground search and rescue teams continue to search for climbers caught up in an avalanche on the world’s 12th highest mountain Broad Peak, for the 2nd day.
The operation was expanded with local Pakistani climbers volunteering, together with others from Nepal who have halted their expeditions on nearby K2.
Bad weather was hampering the search. Pakistani officials said the bodies of three climbers have been recovered.
They have been identified as American Mallory Geis, Nadhira Ahmed Abdullah Al Harthy from Oman and Pur Bahadur Gurung from Nepal.
On Friday, the Alpine Club of Pakistan said several climbers had been spotted by drones but their condition was unknown.
The club’s secretary general, Ayaz Shigri, said the rescuers were concerned about the risk of further avalanches.
Sole survivor from initial team
Pakistani climber Fida Ali, who had joined the expedition during its initial stages, told AFP he narrowly escaped the disaster after returning from the climb to accompany an exhausted Russian climber.
“I wanted to go with him (Purja) but couldn’t and came back with her. I was part of the team but survived,” he said.
Ali said the team’s primary objective this climbing season had been Broad Peak after they had first attempted nearby Gasherbrum II (G2) in difficult weather conditions.
Tributes pour in
Nepal’s Prime Minister Balendra Shah expressed condolences over the deaths, describing the incident as a tragedy that had shocked the country.
“The physical journey of all the deceased climbers has been interrupted, but the history of their courage, dedication, and contributions will always remain inspiring,” Shah wrote in a statement on social media.
Pakistan’s Gilgit-Baltistan government also expressed condolences to the families of those killed and said rescue and recovery efforts would continue.
Purja, a former member of Britain’s Brigade of Gurkhas who later served with the Royal Marines’ Special Boat Squadron, became one of the world’s most recognised mountaineers after completing all 14 mountains above 8,000 metres in just six months and six days in 2019, setting a world record.
His achievement was later documented in the Netflix film 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible, which brought him international recognition.
Earlier this week, Purja wrote on social media that he was attempting to become the first climber to summit all 14 of the world’s “eight-thousanders” twice without supplementary oxygen.
“Broad Peak, I ask for nothing but safe passage up and back down,” he wrote.
THE MISSION SHIFTS. THE COMPASS HOLDS.
This was never the plan. Initially, the plan was to climb just G2. But just before setting off for Pakistan, I ran the numbers on my 8000m summits. That’s when it hit me: if I tick off Broad Peak whilst I’m here , only one remains “Cho… pic.twitter.com/rovJzFcazP
— Nirmal Purja MBE (@nimsdai) July 27, 2026
Broad Peak, the world’s 12th-highest mountain, rises to 8,047 metres in Pakistan’s Karakoram range. It is regarded as one of the most technically demanding of the world’s 14 peaks above 8,000 metres.
The mountain was first successfully climbed in 1957 by an Austrian expedition.
