ISLAMABAD: Renowned British-Nepali mountaineer Nirmal “Nims” Purja, who is among the climbers missing after an avalanche struck Pakistan’s Broad Peak, is widely regarded as one of the most accomplished high-altitude climbers of his generation, having rewritten mountaineering history with a series of record-breaking expeditions.
The 43-year-old former Gurkha and British Special Boat Service soldier rose to international prominence in 2019 when he climbed all 14 of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks in just over six months, shattering the previous record of more than seven years.
His extraordinary feat was documented in the 2021 Netflix film 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible, which introduced his achievements to a global audience and inspired a new generation of climbers.
“I ask for nothing but safe passage up and back down,” Purja wrote on X earlier this week before beginning his Broad Peak summit attempt.
“My purpose has never been about me. It’s about what I represent. It’s about showing you that your own mountains — whatever they are — are climbable.”
From Gurkha to Global Mountaineering Icon
Born in a remote village in western Nepal, Purja joined the Brigade of Gurkhas as a teenager before serving in Britain’s elite Special Boat Service, specialising in extreme cold-weather operations.
His interest in mountaineering began during a trek to Everest Base Camp in 2012, when he climbed Lobuche Peak. Two years later he completed his first ascent of an 8,000-metre mountain, followed by Mount Everest in 2016.
Purja left the military after 16 years of service to pursue professional mountaineering, remortgaging his home to finance his ambitious quest to climb the world’s highest mountains.
In 2021, he led the first successful winter ascent of K2, the world’s second-highest mountain, alongside a team of nine Nepali climbers, a milestone widely regarded as one of modern mountaineering’s greatest achievements.
Championing Nepali Climbers
Purja has frequently said he wanted to highlight the achievements of Nepali climbers, who have long played a crucial role in Himalayan expeditions but often received limited international recognition.
“As a Nepali, I hope my climbs put a spotlight on the talented climbers here,” he told AFP after completing his record-breaking challenge.
Through his charitable foundation, he has supported education initiatives, funded mountain clean-up campaigns and built accommodation for porters on the Everest route.
Despite his achievements, Purja has also faced criticism over his use of supplemental oxygen, fixed ropes, helicopters between base camps and extensive support teams during expeditions.
In 2024, two women accused him of sexual harassment and assault. Purja denied the allegations.
Missing on Broad Peak
Purja is among 10 international climbers reported missing after an avalanche struck Broad Peak, Pakistan’s 8,047-metre peak in the Karakoram range, during a summit push on Thursday.
Pakistan Army Aviation helicopters and ground rescue teams are continuing search operations after four bodies were recovered from the avalanche site
