HUNDERMAN, India: The village of Hunderman, once a thriving community along an ancient Himalayan trade route, now stands as a symbol of division and loss between India and Pakistan.
The region, located in the Kargil area of Kashmir, was caught in the crossfire of the 1947 partition, which saw control of the village switch from Pakistan to India. This left many families, like that of Ghulam Ahmad, separated by a border that is now heavily fortified and almost impossible to cross.
Ahmad, a 66-year-old apricot farmer, dreams of visiting his mother’s grave just 50 kilometers away in Pakistan. However, the realities of the political situation make this a distant hope. The only way to cross the border legally is via a restricted crossing far to the south in Punjab, requiring a grueling journey of over 2,500 kilometers—a trip Ahmad cannot afford.
The Kargil region, overshadowed by the memories of the 1999 conflict between India and Pakistan, remains a tense area, dotted with military posts. The villagers, like Ali, a local tour guide, and his family, live with the constant reminder of loved ones they have never met or have not seen in decades. The conflict has also left its mark on the landscape, with villagers recalling the terrifying days of the Kargil War when they had to take shelter in mountain caves, emerging only at night to tend to their fields.
Despite the relative peace of the past 25 years, the valley’s isolation has decreased thanks to improved infrastructure, including roads and telecommunications. This has allowed some families to reconnect online after decades of silence. However, for many, like Mohammad Baqir, the desire to meet in person and pray together remains an unfulfilled dream, overshadowed by the ongoing militarization of the region.
The generational disconnect is profound, with younger villagers having no memory of the vibrant community that once existed across the border. The memories of the older generation, like Ali Mohammad, are fading, and with them, the ties that once bound these divided communities together. As the years pass, the hope for reunification dwindles, leaving behind a legacy of loss and a generation disconnected from their roots on either side of the border.
