KOBARID, Slovenia: When Ana Ros embarked on her culinary journey in Slovenia, she possessed nothing more than a few cookbooks and an audacious personality, as she fondly describes it. Now, this self-taught chef, crowned the world’s best female chef in 2017, proudly wears her two Michelin stars tattooed on her fingers, while contributing to the transformation of her small Alpine nation into a prominent gastronomic destination in Europe.
Ros swiftly discovered her knack for blending unconventional flavors, such as coffee pasta with sea bass, lemon foam, and basil – an early creation that helped establish her reputation. “Like a painter sees colors, the chef sees flavors, and I was always known for using bold flavor combinations,” explained the 50-year-old culinary virtuoso to AFP at her restaurant nestled in the Soca Valley near the Italian border.
Hisa Franko, which Ros has presided over for the past two decades, currently ranks 32nd on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. However, it is not the sole establishment of note in this nation situated between Italy, Austria, and Croatia. The Michelin guide endorses 58 noteworthy restaurants in Slovenia, affirming that the country is asserting itself as a gastronomic haven continuously enhancing its potential and quality.
Innovative chefs like Ros have played a significant role in this culinary evolution, earning her recognition on Netflix’s “Chef’s Table” series. Initially, Hisa Franko served traditional fare as a family inn until Ros’s then-partner, Valter Kramer, assumed ownership from his parents in 2002. Deviating from her aspirations of a diplomatic career in Brussels, Ros decided to join her husband in the restaurant, following her heart and her passion for cooking.
“At the beginning, it was just like cooking for survival… I started cooking from scratch,” reminisced the chef. From the outset, Ros developed a distinctive approach to crafting flavors that leave a lasting impact on the mind. “Because my food is all about my character. A bit crazy… still childish,” she remarked, encapsulating her culinary philosophy.
Ros’s cuisine melds an understanding of regional traditions, seasonal ingredients, and her own personality. After years of relentless dedication, word spread about the remote restaurant helmed by a remarkably talented female chef, propelling Ros to be recognized among the world’s culinary elite in a field that remains predominantly male-dominated. “Sometimes you look like an exotic animal,” she quipped, “But, of course, the picture is changing with the new generation, who are super talented and super ambitious.”
Hisa Franko now boasts a team of 40 individuals hailing from approximately 20 countries, working harmoniously in her kitchen. Ros has plans to inaugurate a bistro in the Slovenian capital, Ljubljana. On the day of her conversation with AFP, her kitchen orchestrated a starter featuring deer heart, oyster, kiwi, beetroot, and mountain greens.
According to Lior Kochavy, one of the founders of a weekly street food festival in the capital that brings together leading restaurants, Slovenian cuisine is unparalleled and merits recognition on the global culinary stage. “You will never be bored. There is always something new to try,” he declared.
In Slovenia, a convergence of Latin, Slavic, and Germanic influences has inspired other chefs to attract diners through a commitment to honoring traditions, embracing seasonal produce, and sourcing local ingredients. “We’ve always tried to make sure the distance between the field and the plate is as short as possible,” remarked Tomaz Kavcic, proprietor of the Michelin-starred Gostilna pri Lojzetu (Lojze’s Inn). “In the past, that might not have been appreciated much, but now it is highly valued,” he shared with AFP. From the restaurant’s terrace, nestled atop a vineyard-covered hill, Kavcic marvels at how the menu “writes itself with just the products we see.”
Ros concurred, noting that Slovenians have always relied on nature as their marketplace. “Farmers and foragers – you grow with them, you learn from them, you teach them. It’s kind of like a big family,” she mused, emphasizing the interconnectedness within Slovenia’s culinary community.
